The ones you eat, not the band. (If I were writing about the band, I'd gush for over 9,000 words, and that's not very interesting now is it?)
One World Café in Baltimore has amazing vegetarian chili. People from Sri Lanka or Texas find it mild. People who grew up in homes where spice amounted to salt on mashed potatoes have to do a little dance and drink a little water.
And then there were ninth-birthday sleepovers, when we’d mix up the spiciest concoction possible from whatever was in the fridge and dare a girl to eat it. Not to mention freshman year of college, when the boys would have hot sauce chugging contests (watering eyes, fist-bumps, cries of “Auuuugh!”). If you can’t take the heat, you’re a wimp. Maybe that idea phases out of girl-society ten years before it does for boys, or maybe it just manifests itself differently. Either way, dares and contests imply that the people partaking are not doing it for pleasure. They seek out pain. If they liked eating habaneros the way I eat French fries, it’d be like a sleeping contest.
Growing up, whenever my Southern Maryland Indian community would have “functions,” the options would be Indian food (traditional spicy curries), and kid food (pasta salad, pizza etc). My parents encouraged me and my sister to eat the adult food. The kids who shied away from spices were considered spoiled. For a 14 year old to eat just pizza was unacceptable.
Okay. So spicy food is a rite of passage of some sort. To adulthood, responsibility, or just some arbitrary standard of adolescent toughness.
I was one of the good kids. I’d eat the hot food. For many years I didn’t like it at all. I’d long for mashed potatoes, buttered bread, mac’n’cheese, vegetables that weren’t “destroyed” by “gross things.” My parents would try to get me to finish my dinner by telling me about Columbus, that for centuries Europe didn’t have spices, so I should count myself lucky because I had so many of these voyaged-after spices in just one spoonful of food.
It didn’t work. I envied those dark-aged Europeans who could eat their food without pain. To me, food devoid of discomfort was the supreme self-indulgence.
I’m in grad school. Now I can have as much bland food as I want. Bland food is easier to find or make than intricately spiced curries. Yet do I gorge myself on mac’n’cheese, mashed potatoes, bread rolls, fries without ketchup?
Sure, but not all the time. Just in those rare moods that also impel me to watch Hey Arnold or rock out to N’Sync or bug my friends to play Freeze Tag, which a 23-year-old adult (ha) probably shouldn’t admit to. Mostly, I prefer spicy food. I have no desire to chug Tabasco in a contest, but I do dump a healthy dose of Sriracha into my stir-fries. One World’s chili is my ideal level of spice because it’s just enough to hurt a teensy bit.
What does this mean? Have I become so habituated to pain that I now find it pleasurable? That I now need a bit of pain to really enjoy myself?
The Answers
(I found a paper and a review article that explain the chili conundrum to me. I’ve incorporated that information here. If this interests you, I strongly suggest reading the Rozin article on your own, because it covers a lot about our food preferences beyond the chili pepper.)
Some people like spicy food the first time they eat it. Same with fizzy drinks, which elicit similar patterns on your nervous system as spicy foods do.1 The first time you tried soda, you were probably surprised by the bubbles. Once you realized that the sensation wasn’t wholly unpleasant, you opened yourself to curiosity about it, and the novelty led to liking. “Attempts are currently underway to develop and market carbonated foods, such as fruits and vegetables, one rationale being that the carbonation makes the food more interesting for children.”1 That’s crazy talk. Why not just make kids eat their vegetables? Why not threaten them with time-out or extra chores? But I digress.
Many people don’t like spicy food immediately, but acquire a taste for it which strengthens each time they eat it. In a study covered in the Carstens paper, self-reported “likers” and “non-likers” of spicy food were asked to eat meals designed to have specific concentrations of capsaicin (the chemical that makes chili peppers burn). Even when likers and non-likers gave the same food the same burn rating, likers gave it a higher pleasantness rating than non-likers. “There was a linear increase in the rated liking of spiced (but not unspiced) food across weekly sessions,”1 states the paper, demonstrating that spicy food improves upon exposure.
One possible reason is that spicy food is pleasurable precisely because it is painful. “Irritant chemicals activate trigeminal pain pathways, which in turn could conceivably lead to endorphin release.” 1 The trigeminal nerve connects the tongue with the brain, among other things. If it senses pain, it can relay that information to the brain, which will compensate with endorphins: natural opiates that cause us to feel pleasure. The amount of burn felt by your mouth is proportional to the dose of released endorphins. People who eat chili on a regular basis require a higher dose of capsaicin in order to detect it, so they might be chronically desensitized.1 This means people like me have it good, because we’re not as sensitive to the pain of capsaicin burn, yet experience all the pleasure of the endorphins.
If you discover that eating a particular food brings positive effects and no negative ones, your body will develop a preference for it.2 This makes biological sense because we’re wired to react ambivalently to new foods: with a mixture of interest (potential nutrition source!) and fear (potential poison!). It’s easier to form an aversion than a preference for a new food, but if you get endorphins from eating spicy food, and the initial aversiveness of the taste doesn’t make you break out in hives or anything, you will become more likely to enjoy chili.
You will also like spicy food better if the way you were introduced to it brought otherwise pleasant sensations. If you were introduced to the chili pepper in a badly cooked recipe, you just won’t be that into it. I was introduced to it in my mother’s cooking, which is good whether you enjoy spices or not. Also, apparently the shift between dislike to liking of spices happens between the ages of 5 and 8 in chili-eating cultures like mine,2 so is really no forgiveness for anyone above elementary school eating the kids’ pizza.
Spicy food brings a thrill that comes from your body sensing danger, but your mind knowing it’s safe. It’s the same reason we love rollercoasters.2 Also, children develop some food preferences due to social factors, including direct pressure (rewards/punishments), and just observing that respected heroes, elders and peers like that food. 2 Maybe these factors all combine to explain freshmen boys chugging hot sauce, though I maintain that they’re just silly.
Of course, there are purely biological factors that motivate spice-eating. A liking for spices is adaptive because spices are antimicrobial, provide nutrition and vitamins, and make you sweat and salivate (which is good in hot and dry climates).1
So if you’re a Baltimorean who tends to shy away from spicy food, I’d suggest you go to One World and try the chili. Pick it up- it’s not too strong for you. You might love the rollercoaster.
Sources:
1. Carstens, E., et al. “It hurts so good: oral irritation by spices and carbonated drinks and the underlying neural mechanisms.” Food Quality and Preference, 13, 2002: 431-443. Electronic.
2. Rozin, P., and T. A. Vollmecke. “Food Likes and Dislikes.” Annual Review of Nutrition, 6, 1986: 433-456. Electronic.